What Doctors in Gandan Monastery Have Seen That Science Can't Explain

Mongolia's medical traditions include an ancient heritage of Mongolian traditional medicine based on Tibetan medical principles (Sowa Rigpa) and indigenous steppe healing practices. Traditional Mongolian medicine, known as Mongol emiin uhaan, draws from the vast pharmacopoeia of the steppe — animal products, minerals, and the medicinal herbs of the Mongolian grasslands. The Tibetan Buddhist medical tradition, formalized in texts like the Four Tantras (Gyüshi), was widely practiced in Mongolia's monasteries, where monk-physicians combined herbal medicine, dietary guidance, and spiritual practices.

The Soviet period (1924-1990) brought modern Western medicine to Mongolia, establishing a comprehensive public healthcare system that achieved dramatic improvements in life expectancy and reduction of infectious diseases. However, the transition from Soviet to market economy in the 1990s severely strained the healthcare system. Today, Mongolia's medical infrastructure is concentrated in Ulaanbaatar, with rural areas — particularly the vast steppe and Gobi regions — facing significant access challenges. The Mongolian National University of Medical Sciences trains the majority of the country's physicians. Mongolia has experienced a revival of traditional Mongolian medicine alongside Western practice, with the government establishing a National Center of Traditional Medicine that integrates traditional and modern approaches. The country's unique health challenges include extremely cold winters, air pollution in Ulaanbaatar (among the worst in the world), and providing healthcare to nomadic herding communities.

Mongolia's ghost traditions are rooted in the ancient Turkic-Mongol shamanistic tradition known as Tengerism (worship of the Eternal Blue Sky), which predates the later arrival of Tibetan Buddhism and remains a powerful cultural force. Mongolian shamanism holds that the world is populated by spirits (ongon) inhabiting every natural feature — mountains, rivers, trees, and rocks — and that the spirits of deceased ancestors maintain an active presence in the lives of their descendants. The böö (male shaman) or udgan (female shaman) serves as the intermediary between the human and spirit worlds, entering trance states through drumming, chanting, and dancing to communicate with spirits, diagnose illness, and guide the souls of the dead.

The Mongolian concept of süns (soul) is complex: each person is believed to possess multiple souls, some of which may wander during sleep or illness, causing physical and mental distress. The shaman's primary healing function involves retrieving lost or stolen souls and negotiating with spirits that have caused illness. Ancestral spirits (ongon) are venerated through offerings of milk, airag (fermented mare's milk), and fat placed at ovoo (oboo) — sacred stone cairns found throughout the Mongolian landscape, particularly at mountain passes and other liminal spaces. Travelers traditionally circle ovoo three times and add a stone or offering before continuing, a practice observed even by modern Mongolians driving trucks across the steppe.

The revival of shamanism in Mongolia since the end of Soviet-era suppression (1924-1990) has been remarkable. Shamanic organizations have been formally established, and shamans now practice openly in Ulaanbaatar and across the countryside, conducting healing ceremonies, divination, and rituals to appease spirits. Tibetan Buddhism, which became Mongolia's dominant religion from the 16th century, incorporated many shamanistic elements, including spirit propitiation rituals and protective ceremonies. The Buddhist concept of hungry ghosts (birit, from the Sanskrit preta) was absorbed into the existing Mongolian spirit worldview, and many modern Mongolians maintain both shamanistic and Buddhist spiritual practices.

Mongolia's miracle traditions draw from both its shamanistic and Buddhist heritage. Shamanistic healing ceremonies, performed by böö (shamans) who enter trance states to diagnose and treat illness, include accounts of dramatic recoveries attributed to the shaman's intervention in the spirit world. Buddhist miracle traditions center on revered lamas and rinpoches whose spiritual attainment is believed to confer healing powers. The Gandantegchinlen Monastery in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia's largest functioning Buddhist monastery, is a major site for healing blessings and protective rituals. The tradition of consulting oracles — spiritual practitioners who channel protective deities — for medical guidance remains practiced in Mongolian Buddhist communities. During the Soviet period, when both shamanism and Buddhism were suppressed, spiritual healing went underground but never disappeared entirely, and the post-1990 religious revival has brought these traditions back into open practice.

The Midwest's tradition of keeping things running—tractors, combines, houses, marriages—near Gandan Monastery, Ulaanbaatar produces patients who approach their own bodies with the same maintenance mindset. They don't seek medical care for optimal health; they seek it to remain functional. The wise Midwest physician meets patients where they are, translating 'optimal' into 'good enough to get back to work,' and building from there.

Small-town doctor culture in the Midwest near Gandan Monastery, Ulaanbaatar produced a form of medicine that modern healthcare systems are trying to recapture: the physician who knows every patient by name, who makes house calls in snowstorms, who takes payment in chickens when cash is scarce. This wasn't quaint—it was effective. Longitudinal relationships between doctors and patients produce better outcomes than any algorithm.

Medical missionaries from Midwest churches near Gandan Monastery, Ulaanbaatar have established healthcare infrastructure in some of the world's most underserved communities. These missionaries—physicians, nurses, dentists, and public health workers—carry a faith conviction that their medical skills are divine gifts meant to be shared. Whether this conviction produces better or merely different medicine is debatable, but the facilities they've built are unambiguously saving lives.

German immigrant faith practices near Gandan Monastery, Ulaanbaatar blended Lutheran piety with folk medicine in ways that persist in Midwest medical culture. The Braucher—a folk healer who combined prayer, herbal remedies, and sympathetic magic—was a fixture of German-American communities well into the 20th century. Modern physicians who serve these communities occasionally encounter patients who've consulted a Braucher before visiting the clinic.

Prohibition-era speakeasies sometimes occupied the same buildings as Midwest medical offices near Gandan Monastery, Ulaanbaatar, creating a layered history of healing and revelry. Hospital workers in these repurposed buildings report the unmistakable sound of jazz piano at 2 AM, the clink of glasses in empty rooms, and the sweet smell of bootleg whiskey—a festive haunting that provides comic relief in an otherwise somber genre.

The loneliness of the Midwest winter, when snow isolates communities near Gandan Monastery, Ulaanbaatar for weeks at a time, produces ghost stories born of cabin fever and medical necessity. The physician who snowshoed five miles to deliver a baby in 1887 is said to still make his rounds during blizzards, visible through the curtain of falling snow as a dark figure bent against the wind, bag in hand, answering a call that never ended.

The neuroscience of compassion — studied through paradigms like compassion meditation training and compassion-focused therapy — has revealed that cultivating compassion produces measurable changes in brain function and immune response. Research by Tania Singer, Richard Davidson, and others has shown that compassion meditation increases activity in brain regions associated with empathy and positive emotion, enhances immune function, and reduces stress-related inflammatory markers. These findings suggest that the compassionate care that characterizes the best medical practice is not merely an ethical ideal but a biologically active force — one that can influence both the caregiver's and the patient's health.

Dr. Kolbaba's "Physicians' Untold Stories" documents physicians whose practice was characterized by precisely this kind of compassionate engagement — physicians who cared deeply about their patients' wellbeing, who prayed for them, who wept with their families, and who celebrated their recoveries. For physicians in Gandan Monastery, Ulaanbaatar, these accounts suggest that the compassionate dimension of medical practice — which includes spiritual engagement — is not separate from the clinical dimension but integral to it. The neuroscience of compassion provides the biological framework; Kolbaba's cases provide the clinical evidence that compassionate, spiritually attentive care can contribute to extraordinary healing outcomes.

The tradition of ars moriendi — the "art of dying" well — has been part of Western spiritual and medical practice since the late medieval period. The ars moriendi literature provided spiritual guidance for the dying, emphasizing prayers, sacraments, and the importance of spiritual preparation for death. While the modern hospice movement has largely secularized this tradition, its core insight — that dying is a spiritual as well as a medical event — remains central to palliative care. Research by George Fitchett, Andrea Phelps, and others has shown that patients who receive spiritual care at the end of life have better quality of dying, less aggressive end-of-life medical interventions, and greater peace and acceptance.

Dr. Kolbaba's "Physicians' Untold Stories" approaches the art of dying from an unexpected angle: by documenting cases where patients who had been prepared for death were instead restored to health. These cases do not contradict the ars moriendi tradition but extend it, suggesting that spiritual preparation for death may sometimes create the conditions for a return to life. For palliative care researchers and spiritual care providers in Gandan Monastery, Ulaanbaatar, these cases raise the intriguing possibility that the spiritual practices associated with dying well — prayer, surrender, acceptance, and peace — may, in some circumstances, activate the same biological mechanisms that contribute to living well.

Herbert Benson's research on the relaxation response, conducted at Harvard Medical School over four decades, established the scientific foundation for understanding how contemplative practices — including prayer and meditation — affect physical health. Benson's initial research, published in the 1970s, demonstrated that practices involving the repetition of a word, phrase, or prayer while passively disregarding intrusive thoughts could produce a set of physiological changes opposite to the stress response: decreased heart rate, reduced blood pressure, lower oxygen consumption, and reduced cortisol levels. He termed this cluster of changes the "relaxation response" and demonstrated that it could be elicited by practices from any faith tradition.

Benson's subsequent research revealed that the relaxation response has effects at the molecular level. A 2008 study published in PLOS ONE found that experienced practitioners of the relaxation response showed altered expression of over 2,200 genes compared to non-practitioners, with significant changes in genes involved in cellular metabolism, oxidative stress, and the inflammatory response. A follow-up study showed that even novice practitioners exhibited similar gene expression changes after just eight weeks of practice. These findings provide a molecular mechanism through which prayer and meditation might influence physical health. Dr. Kolbaba's "Physicians' Untold Stories" documents cases where the health effects of prayer and spiritual practice appeared to go far beyond what the relaxation response model predicts, suggesting that Benson's research may represent the beginning rather than the end of our understanding of how contemplative practices influence biology. For researchers in Gandan Monastery, Ulaanbaatar, the gap between Benson's findings and Kolbaba's observations defines the frontier of mind-body medicine.